Replaced ABS, now brakes turn OFF

I don't think you're bled correctly or your new assembly is not good You're accumulator pressure should still not be low but it can be if you're not bleeding correctly there's probably air still in the system but letting it sit isn't hurting anything You need to get your battery on a charger the 12 volt and make sure you can make it through the whole process It's not very lengthy and it doesn't take a whole lot of power but I guess some people linger through the process once you do it once or twice or three times You should have it pretty well down pat

 

No generally you can be in the ACC position which is no foot on the brake one push of the button now one more push of the button and all the dash lights light up that's ACC Do all your testing here leave your charger plugged up to your 12 volt in the back of the car that will give you ample power to bleed the brakes all day long if that's what it takes and that's not what it should take usually I bleed the brakes manually first with the relays out and the power off and everything after I change the thing and that's time-consuming especially with a person that doesn't understand what what you're doing sitting in the car but anyway so I get that out of the way and make sure that that part of it is pretty much good no air is coming out of any of the wheels fittings etc. Then I go to the bleed in the text software and where it talks about bleeding the front brakes and putting a tube in a jar I go past that go past the next one because I've already bled the brakes like this then I get straight to the business with the 30 pumps and 30 seconds that operates the internal valves any air funny business found at this point will just go back up to the reservoir boom so there's that. Then of course my relays go in and then I have my person sitting in the car while I check my rears the pump runs fluid squirts out to giving fitting I close it having release press again do it one more time Make sure there's no more air and do the other side that should get it. A Prius always has brakes at least this model It may not be like they're supposed to be but if you know by the beef and all that what's going on there's no way in the world you will get in a wreck in a Prius because of not being able to stop or if you have this condition I would love to see this car We have tried and tried with ours we've had not ABS no regen breaking at times so on and whatever. But we have always had a pedal just like an old truck without a brake booster and four-wheel drum brakes but we have brakes.

 

That's IG ON when all the dash comes to life on the second push. The first push was ACC, just the radio and such.

 

Yes generally that's fine You're over 12 volt You just don't want to be 11.5 or that kind of nonsense That's not 12 volts 12.4 is 12 volts and then some good show perfect in the position where all the lights are on on the dash but you're not in ready You should be able to sit like that for a while make sure your light switches off and all that this process does not really eat up a lot of electricity I mean don't unlearn anything just try to bleed the brakes and see what happens to your lights and all of that stuff. All of our generation twos always have breaks I've ridden around for a year with a bad break actuator Very poor breaking but breaking nonetheless and if you know it you can drive with it for as long as you want anyway that being said try that and see what happens like I say I just run through the first three or four steps next next next next next you know then get to the one that's going to do the 30 pumps.

 

Most people have found that they need to use a battery charger to keep 12V power high enough to properly bleed the brakes with a scantool (such as Techstream).

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

The blue relays. By the time I get to text software the relays are long back in like I said before but that's just how I do it here The brakes shouldn't be cutting off Not sure what that's about yet.

 

No you don't want to be undoing and redoing the flared reverse flared inverted flared whatever those are called fittings You want to get them in properly so that they gently hand tighten with a wrench and then snug them up a half a turn after they touch it best they are not supposed to be blasted down loctited down or any of that they do very well when they're just seated and a half a turn or something like that kind of like installing spark plugs with new o-rings You're not trying to slam them home and kill them. You can screw up those flare fittings and they are easy to cross thread. Slow and easy That's what you want to be doing with those If you are seeing fluid on the very top of the ABS unit maybe a little bit to the right and back of the plug you plugged in on the unit You do need to make sure that that is touched seated and about a half a turn when you push on the brake or a person pushes on the brake while you look with a flashlight you should not see any bubbling coming out in between the ferrule that's the thing with the threads and the pipe coming through the Pharaoh and going off into the car to the brake system there should be no bubbling or any fluid coming out at all and they should not be hand tight a little tighter than that but you don't want to wail on them. The air shouldn't be making the brakes cut off they should be no cutting off I'm not sure that's what the terminology we want to be using In our experience the Prius always has breaks always you may have elongated stopping distance because of the way the brakes are not working no regen and no ABS. But you have brakes just like an old Dodge truck with four-wheel drums and no brake booster which to many here that will be a foreign language.