Second cup just poured. If memory serves me correct, those speaker wires should be solid colored insulation, not colored dots on white insulation. You might be chasing the wrong wires.
Could be, but this is a 2010 II lift-back. Edit...per the print, (**) note indicates the door speaker wires from connector "OL2" can be either colored wiring or painted. The rest would indicate solid color by omission of that note.
Fair enough- I have no idea what conventions Toyota keeps for themselves. My point- it has at least this one degree of commonality to the door speakers I was working on last week, and nobody has coughed up the real wiring diagram yet.
Ya, I was lucky to download the Service Manual and WDM for the "2010 lift-backs" when is was available here.
If you look at second picture of my post#46, there are more than 11 wires going into that pin set where the other side of the two wires that are bare which match the wires going to the speaker that they split with new speaker wire. Hack job.
As you can see I was able to unclip that entire housing so now I can get closer to the pins to test the other side. Should I select the 15v on the meter and place one probe on the pink wire clip and one probe on the purple wire clip and turn the radio on?
I think I’m just going to run a set of speaker wire and solder it in to the head unit harness. That would be to pink and purple wires on the harness correct?
If you tap in at the HU harness/adapter you mess up the speaker chain parallel, loose some signal to the sqwaker and send full range freqs (that's why the bass blocker cap) to the door woofer...also at reduced power. Yes... check across your 2 exposed wires behind the kick panel for voltage with the system powered up and on. Try because DC and AC because we still don't have confirmation you're on the right circuit...reference my question...why would they tap into speaker wires to power remote start. IF you determine (or reasonably sure) this is the right circuit, just "twist" in some new speaker wire (external jumper) at the 2 exposed and just "shove" the other 2 ends to the speaker J-side itself...right color to right pin. You know, like running new wire, but just hanging out for now. Another question...When you removed the original spliced in connector under the kick, where there 3 wires to each...total 6?
For future reference, this will help if/when you decide to gain access to the dash speaker. Definitely disconnect the 12 VDC battery for this step...and wait a few. Don't want that airbag popping in your face.
I admire your determination...but realize this is easier for me to do than teach over the phone...and even though I'm an Airline Mechanic (fly free) I am not flying or driving to Ohio for this...respectfully.
You have me a chuckle, I needed it. So I have the head unit out. I separated the front speaker wire from the head unit to the vehicle harness. I checked as instructed for continuity....one prob on the front positive speaker lead to the two exposed wires that I thought were the leads..no continuity on eithier...very lost, I figured I would just splice in a speaker lead at the head unit but you say this is not a good idea... The blue wires at the door were going to the speaker and then spliced into the pink and violet coded wires that were going through the door then connected to the two exposed wires I photographed going into the clip.
If I understand what you said correctly...you don't have continuity thru the pink wire (+). Does that mean you do have continuity thru the violet (-)?
I have no continuity through eithier the pink or the violet. I also took a paper clip and went from behind the connector to where the wires are coming in and no continuity detected. To clarify, I just assumed the two blue wires were from the remote start install. I know now they have nothing at all to do with the remote start.
If you see where my thumb is in the pic this is where I tested the pink and the violet for continuity against the front speaker input wires coming from the radio harness. To the left of my thumb are the original wires that were found cut (pink and violet marked).
To further complicate things, I did get some continuity from the pink wire that is in the farthest left connector clip. I can see a purple wire in that clip as well, but I did not get any continuity.
Well that's a bit aggravating eh? At this point I would either hold up for the real wire diagram, or I would hook up my tone generator behind the head unit and sniff it out with an inductive amp. But I'm guessing you haven't got those tools... The only other thing I can think is that I'm wrong about the block diagram I suggested.
Check for voltage across them and check each separately to a known good ground...both DC and AC. The prints (wiring diagram) are correct as it came from the Factory specific to his 2010 Prius II with the Base system...before the hack/s got a hold of it that is.
