What kind of engine work should I do?

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Technical Discussion' started by BiaoH, Apr 25, 2022.

  1. CR94

    CR94 Senior Member

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    If the wall surfaces are in good shape, and have no ridge at the top, wouldn't the bore size necessarily be good?

    Good luck!
     
  2. BiaoH

    BiaoH Junior Member

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    I did a rough measurement with my caliper. The factory spec for cylinder diameter: standard 80.5-80.513mm, max 80.63mm. I guess caliper measurement might not be accurate enough though. The front-back diameter all came back around 80.5mm and the left-right direction measured around 80.4mm for all 4. Looks like within spec but the caliper is not accurate enough for this purpose I understand that. I'm thinking about ordering a bore caliper from Amazon ($50) not sure if it's dependable..
     
  3. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Look at the cylinder bore crosshatch patterns. If they all there and not worn off in places, you are good.

    Verify the block surface is not warped. I would have the head sent to an auto machine shop and inspected or rebuilt as needed. Ask them about the best tools for verifying the block.
     
    #23 rjparker, Apr 30, 2022
    Last edited: Apr 30, 2022
  4. prius16

    prius16 Active Member

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    As rjparker said, look at the crosshatch pattern.
    Also, use your eyes, finger-tips, and fingernail, to look for and feel for, ridges/scratches in the bore.

    Fwiw, you're not going rebore, rehone, etc those cylinder bores.
    At best, they get sleeved. Imho, unless you're in some country ?like Iran? (massive import restrictions), it would never make economic, nor practical sense, to sleeve one of the newer "sprayed wall" aluminum engine blocks.
    Fwiw, in Africa, because of the size of the country and access, it sometimes makes sense to re-sleeve engine blocks, where in most other countries, a used engine would be used.


    Fwiw, when I go on youtube, and look at videos on topics that I know about, I often feel like "Diogenes the Cynic - looking for an honest man".
    Or more specifically, trying to fine one person who doesn't have their head far up their rear-end.

    The above was true about trying to find a video on cylinder diameter measuring and using gauges.
    Very sad!

    I found one, just one video, where the person had any clue on the proper way to use the gauges.
    Of course, it has very few views. sigh....

    Who cares about the accuracy of information in a video?
    We care about pretty videos with pretty pictures!!!!!! :)


    Code:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=taYrCRERzIs


    Dial Bore Gauge and Cylinder Measurements
    Mar 26, 2020
    Conestoga College Automotive


    Good Luck!
     
    #24 prius16, Apr 30, 2022
    Last edited: Apr 30, 2022
  5. CR94

    CR94 Senior Member

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    And as I said too, nearly a day earlier.
     
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  6. prius16

    prius16 Active Member

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    Mea culpa! :oops:
    Sorry I forgot to add that in.

    .
     
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  7. BiaoH

    BiaoH Junior Member

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    The crosshatch patterns are pretty clear for all of the cylinders and are not worn off. I have straight edge and feeler gauge and checked the warpage. The cylinder block warpage limit is 0.05mm/0.00197in and based on my measurement it's definitely within the limit. The cylinder head shows a ~0.002-0.003in warpage which is slightly higher than the limit so I think it needs a resurface. I'm trying to find a local machine shop that's willing to do this work... However I do see a guy posted a youtube video that resurfaced the head with sand paper... not sure how it's compared to a machine shop work, considering the fact that there's also a risk that the person in the machine shop may not know what he/she's doing...


    Looks like the engine has been pretty well maintained albeit being used quite heavily (230k miles in 12 years). The quality of the Toyota engine is pretty nice internally. I'm still debating if I should replace the pistons and rings. The updated pistons are $60 each and ring set is $110, plus I need to buy a small tool set to install, so total ~$400. Not feeling quite justifying for the cost...
     
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  8. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Do you have oil consumption; how much?

    consider too, just replacing rings, with stock rings. Yeah they’re more prone to letting oil get past (and clogging?), but it’s cheaper/easier and good for at least another 100k, maybe better if you use a shorter oil change interval.
     
  9. BiaoH

    BiaoH Junior Member

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    Problem is I don't know. I bought this car as a project and the transmission input shaft was shot so I had no way to know if it burns oil. It's essentially a choice between cheap out take the risk vs spending $400 for a peace of mind.
     
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  10. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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    If you can see the original cross hatching in the cylinder, then the bore size hasn't changed significantly. You can google for opinions as to whether you should use a hone to deglaze the bores or not. Replacement "old style" rings at a minimum after cleaning the pistons. Go for the updated pistons if you read up on the procedure and think you can swap them without damaging anything.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  11. BiaoH

    BiaoH Junior Member

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    OK so I decided to replace the pistons and rings. Ordered the updated parts based on the TSB however the parts manager contacted me saying the parts I ordered do not fit my vehicle... so hilarious. I told him they are updated parts based on the TSB and he has not replied yet.

    Pulled the old transmission out a couple days ago so now the engine bay is empty. I'm applying some POR-15 to treat the rust on the frame and waiting for the new motor cable (the old one has too much rust on the connector shield that I decided to replace it).
     
  12. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    Okay, what is a motor cable?
     
  13. BiaoH

    BiaoH Junior Member

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    The high voltage wire that goes between the inverter and the motor(transmission). There are 4 HV wires that connects to the inverter, 2 go to the battery(these two are internally connected in the inverter so it's essentially 1 wire to me) and 2 go to the transmission. The 2 wires that go to transmission are called motor wire and generator wire.
     
  14. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    So it's the The high voltage wire....... Than makes sense....
     
  15. nicoj36

    nicoj36 Active Member

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    Clean EGR, Intake Manifold, Throttle body, replace all fluids, coolants, transmissions, etc.
     
  16. BiaoH

    BiaoH Junior Member

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    Thank you for the note! Absolutely I always clean all parts before putting back. I'm a little OCD on this lol!

    Honestly I'm taking my time treating all the rust on the subframe and surrounding the engine bay now as I can't tolerate them present. Otherwise I should already have the trans dropped in.
     
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  17. nicoj36

    nicoj36 Active Member

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    Also, lubricate your suspension and bushings like scotty kilmer did.
     
  18. BiaoH

    BiaoH Junior Member

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    I actually ordered a brand new set of struts, LCA w/ ball joint and sway bar links. The old struts have torn dust covers and the LCAs were heavily rusted so I decided to replace all of them. Honestly I don't quite like Scotty Kilmer's trick on this. The lubricant sprayed on will be absorbed by the rubber and ruin the rubber in the long run. My experience is that most of the suspension noise are caused by improper torque procedure -- you need to lower the car onto the ground and put all weight on the wheels before tightening all the bolts. If you did it vice versa, the suspension is going to make noise.

    FYI: A lot of claims/experience from Scotty Kilmer are actually wrong or untested. Project Farm is much more reputable.
     
  19. nicoj36

    nicoj36 Active Member

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    Dryness will ruin rubber, not lubricant.
     
  20. BiaoH

    BiaoH Junior Member

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    It depends on what lubricant you use. Most petroleum lubricants will ruin rubber by causing it to swell. A few safe on rubber lubricants are silicone lubricant, vegetable oil, etc. However silicone spray does not stick on rubber for long when exposed to air -- usually a few days is enough for it to evaporate.
     
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